Tuesday, May 30, 2017

So its been a while.....5-30-17

I surfed.  Friday night for 1.5 hours.  Saturday night for 2 hours.  Sunday morning starting at 6 am for 2 hours.  Sunday evening, after sailing in the Hobie for 6 hours, 2.5 hours.  Monday morning at 6 am for 2 more hours.

Learning to surf was so far off my radar for so long.  I just never thought of being in a place to learn.  Never thought of being so fortunate.  Not only now am I in this place where I can learn, I'm in good enough shape to learn, and if you've read any of the rest of this journal/blog you would know its the hardest thing I've ever done.

On a side note....when I came back from surfing Saturday evening in the work truck in my shorts around 6:30pm,  I parked the work truck at the man camp.  When I got out to walk to my miniature apartment two Marshallese guys were leaving someone else's apartment and saw me.  They asked me for a ride to the dock/ checkpoint.  It was raining and had been since 3pm.  The safety guy came out and said he couldn't take them because he had been drinking.  Abi and the other guy whose name I can't remember had been drinking too.  Abi kept saying stuff like "Ben ...you are batch plant boss, bring me to batch plant, I want to work for you, I respect you" to which I replied "I'm not the batch plant boss, I'm just putting it together for James" Abi denies me that I am the boss several times and tells me to promise him I will bring him out there.

On Kwaj, especially lately, you are not allowed to use work (government property) vehicles for personal use.  So I knew taking them up there would probably earn me a ticket and possibly a driving suspension from San Juan, but it was raining, and I love the Marshallese guys.

Halfway back near dusk the rear view mirror showed headlights.  It had to be the cops.  I was only a half mile from the man camp where I could hide truck amongst the others and duck into my place before they would know who was driving.  A half mile at fifteen miles an hour, the islands top speed limit, is an eternity to get thru.  I sped up to 40mph.  It was risky.  I made it.  I saw the little square cop suv drive past.....

Next time copper....next time!!


Ok, so that was a long side note..

The thought that originally started this thought was Guiness, the great dane I had the pleasure of being best friends with for 11 years.  When she was 4 she would run like a gazelle for an hour, then rest for half a day.  When she was12 she would run like a gazelle for two minutes then rest for several days.  I seem to be her at 12.  The surfing wiped me out.  I spent much of the latter half of Memorial Day weekend chilling like Guiness.

I started wearing the high visibility orange shirts after the 4 or 5 guys got lost Oceanside for 5 hours.
Apparently, I'm not worried about the advertising space of my forehead getting sunburnt.  This picture was taken by Chris Rice...thank you

This is a church on Ebeye.  Bilwa told me it took 3 guys seven years to build it.
so we can get pretty close to things with my Hobie....I do love sailing by Ebeye with it

Patrick and Tom's boat ...the Geneva.
This picture taken by Steve Davis....shows the size of waves I love out here.  Too much bigger and its scary.  I didn't really catch this one right and ended up riding the white water as opposed to turning right.and heading down the face of the wave
Kiteboarding at Bigej......beautiful place...

Bigej....around 40 folks live here.  great people.  


Wednesday, May 10, 2017

Bilwa has the best laugh

Bilba......and that's not his name.....

Today, he starts telling me about how one of our new safety guys approached one of the guys (not sure if he was "rebelle" (white guy) or Marshallese.  It's probably not important to the story any how.  The important part is that he was a KRS employee.  KRS is the "king" on Kwaj as Bilba put it.  They are the military contractor that runs the island, and has run the island for quite a while.  KRS = Kwajalein Range Services.  They may be based out of Georgia.

So to set this up better, there are 10 or so San Juan guys working downwind of some old Kwaj housing units.  At the industrial boat dock on the industrial side of the island. They are basically mobile homes, made in the fifties or sixties.  They called them at the time "Silver City" because there were a slew of them together located lagoon side on Kwaj, and they are covered in galvanized/silver tin. They are now kind of dispersed on Kwaj, and a few are halfway up the "causeway" .  The "Causeway" is the 5 or so islands north of Ebeye.  Shell, North Shell, Loi, and a few other islands I can't remember make up the "Causeway" that extends ten miles north of Ebeye.

The San Juan guys, working "hard" to get things together for the next barge at the more industrial boat ramp that has some acronym name that I can't recall, are doing their thing when the KRS guys start doing something to the "silver city" trailers.

I wasn't personally there for this, and it may be totally a moment where you "had to be there", but Bilba's laugh, as he finished the story has led me to this post.  So Bilba (still not his real name, and not sure why I feel I need to protect his real name, except that his laugh  was soo loud and so extended it deserves to get him fired...not really...but it was great).  A friend told me "that's all the Marshallese have left is to laugh".  That part is kind of sad, but its true, and they certainly do laugh.

So Bilso explains to me how the safety guy approaches the KRS workers, chest puffed, and declares "hey you guys can't do that while we are here working, those things are full of asbestos and we are downwind working"...."I'm the safety guy for San Juan, you have to stop doing that".  So the guy says "ok, I'll be back".  He comes back a bit later with the bigger KRS guy who says "you're absolutely right, these trailers do have asbestos in them and you are down wind, YOU guys have to move................






Saturday, May 6, 2017

I've got the most beautiful life!

May 6th, 2017.

Its been too windy to think about going camping.  The wind forecasts every weekend for a month or two show the wind slowing down the following weekend. Every week for four weeks its been wrong, but this weekend we are going to ignore it.  It nearly takes a week to pull off a camping trip to another island on this Atoll (as opposed to all the other atolls' I've been on :)).  First, willing people have to be found, then paperwork has to be taken care of.  You go to the RMI office on Kwaj, and the very friendly Marshallese people stamp your trip request as "approved".  Its a big round official deal, and they just don't really care much where you are going.  Next is passing their approved trip request out to the required powers that be out here.  The RMI office is only open during the hours that we work....well ok not quite as extended as our ten hour days.  So I have to sneak off a little during lunch, even though I scarf down two plates really quickly.  5 copies are made and you have to distribute them yourself, so that has to happen during my working hours.  Its a 3 day deal.  The people you invite have no clue, so they randomly renege.

I have the best life!!  Pictures to follow

Monday, March 13, 2017

a great memorable weekend...Larry's goodbye and sailing with Ted

3-?-17
There is a saying out here that goes kind of like this - Our evenings are like your weekends, Our weekends are like your vacations, Our vacations are.....I don't remember what I've heard..but Out of this world would be a good ending.

My previous boss, Larry Cotton, is retiring.  I'm not certain if he was ready to or not, regardless, he's going to be leaving us, leaving Kwaj and SJC.  He never really gave me much respect for what I did, but to be honest, only civil engineers respect a Materials Testing Lab Manager.  Larry came out here as an electrician, I heard.  He ended up being the commander in chief for San Juan Construction on Kwajalein.  At around 5'6" and 170 I'd guess, with balding head and a mischievous face, he quietly got things done out here for the people headquartered in Montrose Colorado.  He was good to the people out here from Kwaj.  He helped a lot of them get things done, when they had no one to turn to get their boat fixed, or a part borrowed here or there.  He understood the give and take of this island.  More than anything though, he loved and respected the Marshallese guys that worked for San Juan on the island. 

This is beginning to sound like an obituary, maybe I've used too much past tense. 

Saturday they had the Marshallese going away party for him.  It was at 3pm which is cutting two hours out of the workday, and there was 25 cases of beer, along with a few cases of pop and water available.  25 or so "rebelle" (Marshallese for white guy) were present, probably only 5 knew him for more than 5 months, most only for a month or so.  75 or so Marshallese were there.  I'd say a good half of them knew Larry for more than 5 years.  He was good to them, I heard rumors that the leadership for SJC thought he was too easy on them. 

I can safely say, while in general it is human nature to be lazy, the expats out here that I've seen hired by SJC are far lazier, and much better at avoiding work than 80% of the Marshallese. 

The farewell that the Marshallese workers gave that evening for Larry, is unequivocally, the most emotional retirement party I am certain I will ever go to.  I've seen it before, just not to this extent.  They all sang in harmony and in Marshallese, their goodbye song. While they sang, 75 bellowing voices, they stood in line in front of Larry single file, and gave him gifts, handshakes, and hugs.  All the gifts were handmade items, hats, necklaces mainly, and a few other items.  I felt weird standing in line at the end and shaking his hand and giving him a custom made "Kwajalein Atoll Frisbee", but I'm glad I did.  I was one of two rebelle that did.

David Candle, one of the workers that had been with him for 20 years out here, tried to give a speech.  He couldn't really get thru it because he kept tearing up.  After he gave up, they made Larry talk, and he couldn't get thru it either, because he was tearing up.  What he did say, I hope the new project manager out here heard.  He said to the Marshallese mainly "you guys have it a lot harder than the expats do out here, you have to get up earlier to get over here, you work harder......." and I think he kind of lost it after that...

I walked out of UPS after 18 years and giving a two week notice, pretty much like any other day.  I just left.  No fanfare, no thank you,  no nothing.  It was about what I expected. 

I would much rather leave a place like Larry is leaving, where the people that matter, send you off like you mattered. 

I took pictures, and videos, but the sound did not come thru on the videos, I'm going to try and find a video of it that has sound, and post it, because the sound really really matters.

That was Saturday.  I spent part of the day trying to put together some sort of sailing on the Hobie trip for early Sunday morning because the winds were looking a bit lighter, and near straight east.  I didn't think it would be something any of the girls I have been sailing with could handle, except for one, but she was on call.  I really wanted to try and go with Bilwa.  Bilwa (spelling may or may not be right, but its phonetically correct) is a 55 year old Marshallese guy, who has been with SJC for a while out here.  He has no front teeth on top, and smokes, and loves to drink when there is a party.  He knows a lot of the island ways of doing things, and they all tell me he is "number one fisherman".  He also has the same great attitude of most the Marshallese, and has the best laugh when he's having fun, its addictive.

I really wanted to sail to an island on the west reef.  Crossing the lagoon in winds much higher than 15 can get really sketchy.  Ted and I have been out in the lagoon at 24 mph winds, only a mile off the east reef, which is where the wind comes from.  So the east reef provides a little protection, but not when the wind is 24 mph and from the north east.  Ted and I had both hulls and the trampolines and contents completely under more than a foot of water five times that day.  We were both scared the first two times it happened, but the thing resurfaced and on we went. So it can kind of handle it, but well it wasn't really safe.  At 24 mph winds from the northeast, we had to head out into the lagoon to get upwind on the east reef, then tack and head towards the reef.  Picture a straight line (the reef and Ebeye and all the islands connected by the causeway) that runs slightly northeast to southwest.  To make it upwind the pattern looks like a bunch of stretched out "Z's" heading somewhat north.  If the wind is straight east at around 80 degrees, its a perfect line to head up the causeway, no tacks or jibes or turning needed.  It should also be said that sustained winds above 20 mph usually has the harbor control shutting down the use of the rental boats.  They call it "small craft advisory".  I usually forget to look.  It's not too smart, I'll admit, to go out in small craft advisory, because, as one might imagine ...if they recommend not going out in a rental boat, they dont' wanna come rescue your dumbass on a private boat because they judge the conditions to be to strong.  So that's the kind of confidence (read stupidity) I had a few times.

So for the non sailors, picture the wind blowing from your starboard side, your right side.  You are cruising along, wind hitting your right side.  If you try and turn into the wind to get the boat to change directions its called a tack.  So you would turn right, if the wind is coming from your right.  A "jibe" is turning away from the wind to switch directions.  A tack, is much more preferred than a jibe because the sail comes around slower.  If you turn downwind or jibe when the sail switches over it does so fairly violently.  The violence can be controlled by making a very slow turn and keeping the sail tight to the center of the boat with both the traveler and the main sheet, but it still slams over much more dramatically than when tacking.  ESPECIALLY in high winds. 



Monday, January 30, 2017

pictures - Palawan and some miscellaneousness

all the dogs in the Philippines looked very similar to this...not fat, not thin, not unhappy, not sad, just a little pathetic


So the lady two miles up the road at the "checkpoint" suggested "Roselands Resort".  I stopped in, they were eating fish until I showed up then they gave me this.  There's a lot of meat in a fish head.

Christmas on Ebeye....awesome


Another church with a more cough "traditional" Christmas theme.


Roselands Resort on Palawan

Roselands Resort again




Thursday, January 19, 2017

The water out here is ...compelling

Jan. 19, 2017

Alaska's beauty, as far as an earth bound person can see it, is above the water .  Gorgeous snow covered peaks only four or five thousand feet above sea level.  Its the Rockies meets the ocean.  You can go kayaking in the summer and see this beautiful glassy water, surrounded by green grass and pine covered lowlands with low peaks covered with snow higher up. The landscape is unimaginably beautiful.   I have it labelled in my mind the most beautiful place I've been.  Its a close race with these south pacific islands.  The Marshall islands, and I've only been able to see the tiniest portion of it, have a different approach to beauty than Alaska.  Most of what I've experienced, is barely above sea level.  Many of the islands are a bit barren, most covered in coconut trees, a few a bit less vegetative. 

The empty islands here give a cross between those iconic "comic" images that cartoons in the States depict with a few palm trees and one or two people having issues, and the screen saver that half of America has on its computer.    That's the competition, the above ground Alaska, beats the above ground Marshall islands.  The equalizer comes with the underwater beauty out here.